Join us as we recount an unforgettable journey through the Outer Hebrides, highlighting breathtaking sights, wildlife encounters, and rich history.
Our recent trip to the Outer Hebrides was nothing short of spectacular. After much deliberation, we opted for an organized tour with Brightwater, allowing us to enjoy the breathtaking scenery without worrying about logistics. This included a ferry ride from Big to Lochmaddy on North Uist, a comprehensive exploration of the islands, and a return journey from Stornoway to Ullapool.
While the tour wasn’t strictly focused on wildlife, it promised vibrant sightseeing opportunities and ancient sites, which excited us. My wife, Joanne, had long dreamed of visiting these enchanting islands, and that anticipation made the trip even more special.
Day 1: Edinburgh to Uig
Setting off from Edinburgh around 9:30 AM, we journeyed towards the Isle of Skye, with each passing mile revealing more dramatic landscapes. Although wildlife sightings were modest—just a jay perched in a roadside tree and a red deer—our spirits were high. The ferry crossing offered a tranquil sea; while enjoying dinner, we spotted a few porpoises and a playful pod of bottle-nosed dolphins following our vessel.
For our first three nights, we stayed at the Dark Island Hotel in Liniclate, Benbecula. As twilight fell, we witnessed a stunning sunset framed by azure seas and pristine sands, and the very first sighting from our window—a short-eared owl—set a promising tone for the days ahead.
Birdwatching Highlights from Day 1
- Herring Gull
- Common Buzzard
- Carrion Crow
- Goldfinch
- Great Black-backed Gull
- Oystercatcher
- Puffin
- Razorbill
- Short-eared Owl
- Curlew
Day 2: Benbecula, South Uist, Eriskay, and Barra
Day 2 took us from Benbecula to South Uist, onwards to Eriskay, where we boarded another ferry bound for Barra. Sunshine greeted us initially, though clouds rolled in as we traveled. The shifting scenery was a feast for the eyes—heathland gave way to enchanting rocky inlets adorned with golden seaweed.
On this crossing, we noted several seabirds, adding to our list. Notable sightings included black guillemots and arctic terns, punctuating an already exceptional day. Each new sighting filled us with excitement as our trip list grew.
Day 2 Birdwatching Additions
- Meadow Pipit
- Mute Swan
- Lapwing
- Lesser Black-backed Gull
- Raven
- Common Scoter
- Greylag Goose
- Black Guillemot
Day 3: RSPB Reserve at Balranald
Day 3 started on a high note with another impressive sighting—a male hen harrier, soon followed by another short-eared owl. With local explorations in mind, we traveled to the R.S.P.B reserve at Balranald, arriving amid pouring rain. We braved the elements for a three-mile walk around the reserve where we observed a snipe overhead and bar-tailed godwits in fields.
Despite challenging weather, the stunning Machair landscape filled us with awe. Although corncrakes eluded us due to the season, we were treated to remarkable views of the beach and a distant black-throated diver with its chick. The highlight was a swift glimpse of an arctic skua. Nature’s beauty, even in the rain, was undeniable.
Day 3 Birdwatching Highlights
- Hen Harrier
- Bar-tailed Godwit
- Snipe
- Stonechat
- Arctic Skua
- Black-throated Diver
Day 4: Onward to Stornoway
Day 4 brought persistent rain, with our morning starting with a thrilling sighting—a white-tailed eagle gliding gracefully near our accommodation. Although the weather was harsh as we traveled north toward Stornoway, the experience remained exhilarating. The ferry ride from Bernaray to Leverburgh was particularly dramatic; we saw seabirds master the winds, with gannets diving effortlessly for fish.
Day 5: Ancient Landmarks
On the fifth day, we were greeted by clearer skies, which greatly improved our mood. Our main destination was Calanais to visit the renowned standing stones, where a new visitor center captured our interest. The stones themselves, set against a magnificent landscape, were awe-inspiring. Midges made a small appearance, but that did not deter us from checking out Dun Carloway Broch, an ancient stone structure offering stunning views and encounters with hooded crows.
A visit to Norse Mill and Kiln provided additional picturesque moments, featuring a tranquil setting by a stream where we spotted a raven and a black darter dragonfly.
Day 6: Farewell to the Islands
As our trip drew to a close on Day 6, we began early to catch the 7 AM ferry. The weather was dreary and felt distinctly Autumnal, with little activity on the ferry aside from a few notable sightings: an arctic skua and a couple of Manx shearwaters. The return journey to Inverness culminated with the addition of a red kite to our list.
This unforgettable trip exposed us to breathtaking scenery, the allure of the islands, and the warm camaraderie among fellow travelers. We had the privilege of learning from an expert tour manager whose extensive knowledge enriched our experience, along with a skilled coach driver expertly navigating narrow roads. By the end of the journey, we were not just acquaintances but friends, unified by a shared appreciation for the remarkable landscapes and rich history of the Outer Hebrides.
Our heartfelt thanks go to Brightwater, our tour manager Alistair, our driver Stuart, and all the wonderful people we met along the way; each contributed to an incredible adventure.
